Stain Removal from Carpets and Upholstery

New upholstery fabrics sold after 1970 may have a letter code indicating the safest cleaning method . Check the code before you apply cleaning or spot removal materials. The letter, W, indicates water and cleaning agents or foam mixed with water may be used. The letter, S, indicates only dry cleaning solvents. Don't use water. W-S indicates either water-based methods or dry-cleaning solvents may be used. The letter, X, means don't use any liquid or foam cleaning agent. Remove soil by brushing or vacuuming only, or refer the problem to professional cleaners.

The first rule of stain removal is to remove stains promptly after they occur. Many spots are hard to remove if they're allowed to "set."

Start by scraping off any excess stain or blot off liquids with a dry, clean towel or cloth as quickly as possible.

Pretest cleaning methods. Be sure you do your test in an inconspicuous spot, such as, on the backside or underside of the chair cushion or in the corner or behind the drapery area of the carpet. If the solution doesn't harm the fibers or the dyes of the fabric and the colors don't run or bleed or shrink, then proceed with removing the stain. If, on the other hand, the fabrics do seem to be adversely affected, contact a professional cleaning service. Some rayon upholstery fabrics are susceptible to shrinkage and color bleeding. Don't use water on these fabrics instead use a dry-cleaning fluid.

When you use cleaning materials, always apply them sparingly with a blotting or patting motion. Don't soak the fabric with the cleaning solution. Dry the area immediately with an absorbent cloth, a tissue or a sponge to keep the liquids from reaching the filling materials of cushions or the backing or the pads under carpets.

Solvent cleaners will soften and destroy natural rubber foam. Synthetic fillings react less to solvents but repeated excessive applications could cause damage. Be sure you're in a well-ventilated room whenever you use dry-cleaning solvents.

Remove greasy and oily stains such as chocolate, ice cream or lipstick, with a dry-cleaning solvent such as Energine or Carbona or Renuzit.

In removing chewing gum, candle wax and adhesive tape, rub them with ice to harden them then scrape off as much as you can with your fingernail or a dull knife. Then, wipe any remaining stain with dry cleaning solvent.

Egg and blood stains can be sponged with a diluted solution of ammonia. Mix three teaspoons of ammonia in one quart of water. If the stain has set, sponge it with a three percent hydrogen peroxide solution then add a drop of ammonia to the stain on top of the peroxide. Tap the stain with the back of a spoon. Repeat the process if necessary then blot the area with clear water.

You should sponge urine stains with white vinegar diluted with water then detergent and cool water. Finally, blot the area with clear, cool water.

Mildew stains should be scraped off then sponged with mild suds and wiped with alcohol.

Milk and vomit stains should be sponged first with dry-cleaning solvent, then blotted and dried. Next, apply a solution made of a small amount of ammonia, mild detergent and water.

After you've cleaned upholstery fabrics, brush pile fabrics while they're still damp brush against the pile after it has dried. For carpets, after wetting the surface during cleaning, place a dry towel or other absorbent material over the area and weight it down. If the absorbent material becomes wet, replace it. Let it stay on the cleaned area for eight hours and then remove it. Brush the area to blend the pile with the surrounding carpet.

No endorsement is implied nor discrimination intended by the mention of commercial products in this program There may be other commercial products available which work equally well in the removal of stains. Check labels or ask for such products where cleaning supplies are sold.

For more information on removing stains from carpets and upholstery, contact your local County Extension Office.